25
Sep
2003

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Gestern hab ich ihn mir gekauft: Starship Troopers auf DVD! Das Special Effects Feuerwerk der Extraklasse hat es mir schon seit der Erstaufführung angetan. Als ich ihn mir aber dieses mal zusammen mit Verhoevens Audiokommentar (geil – der Regisseur streitet sich im Hintergrund regelrecht mit seinem Drehbuchautor über die Politik der USA) ansah, lief mir ein kalter Schauer über den Rücken: Markige Clips im Wochenschaustil, der Feind, der mit modernsten Waffen förmlich abgeschlachtet wird, Erstschlagsdoktrin, Kulturkampf, Embedded Journalists, usw. Genauso lief der Irakkrieg dieses Jahr ab. Verhoeven lieferte mit seinem Film mehr oder weniger die Drehbuchvorlage für den Sturz Saddams ab.

Mordâd 2, 1382

It was a little bit strange to touch down in Tehran. The international airport was quit dark and the infrastructure was far away from the modern Dubai hub. So we had to leave the plane again over the stairs. After busses took us to the immigration I was remembered to the arrival in Kairo. The building looked quit similar. Inside fear was growing a little bit. How would it be to immigrate into a fundamental state? It was ... easy. Showing the passport, a stamp for 50 days and it was over. I was officially in the Islamic Republic of Iran. The baggage claim was much more time intensive than the border officer. It took quit a while till I had my bagpack. But it was here (I was impressed because the transfer time in Dubai was really short) and this was important. Beside the baggage claim one of the Iranian banks had a office and so I was able to change my first 100 € bill. I got nearly 1 million Rials. This is nearly a small mountain because the biggest Iranian bill is only 10,000 Rials worth.
Rials
Before I arrived in Tehran I was studying the Lonely Planet very carefully. The plane was said to arrive before 4 am. This meant that I needed a plan for the coming day. After a lot of reading and thinking I decided to visit Kashan first. I wanted to take the train to Kerman, but it was leaving only every two days. This would meant for me to stay one day in Tehran. My travel guide mediated not a impressive picture of the Iranian capital so I decided myself against the train and for the bus. Later I thought I can take the train back from Kerman. The plan was perfect. It was said to me that in the terminal should be a taxi office but before I found it a Iranian was standing beside me. He was offering a ride to the bus terminal. It is maybe the same everywhere on the world: Don't trust a taxi driver on the airport! For sure he was taking me to the bus terminal but for an astronomical price at least for him: Afterwards he was 10 € richer. He was for sure not working anymore on this day or week. Later at the bus terminal he offered me a ride to Kashan for 10 €. Crazy! For me it was quit clear that this was the last money I gave to him. The Bus to Kashan costed 2 Dollars for a Westerner. At least he helped me to get one. For this he waited at the terminal exit. The bus stewards are always looking for guests so it is no problem to jump onto a bus from everywhere.
After the flight during the night I was really tired. So I slept a little bit in the bus. Qom was passing by. In the plane I decided not to visit this holy town. I needed first some time to get familiar with this total different culture. To start with the second holiest city of Iran would be not a good idea, I thought. During the ride a Imam was sitting beside me. He was a young one and quit interested to talk with me. Unfortunately he was only able to speak Persian. So the smalltalk was quit difficult. But it worked. He was coming from Tehran. There he was training martial arts (quit popular in Iran) and proudly he presented me his awards. He was as well travalling to Kashan. When we arrived there he gave me a 100 Rial bill with some engravings on it. It was somehow symbolic. Maybe a small thank you for talking with him. He helped me as well to get a Taxi to the hotel I had choosen. A very good one for Iranian circumstances with western toilets for 30 Dollars. It was a little bit expansive but the manager was able to speak English and this helped me to organise a tour on the next day to Abyaneh.
Kashan
After a short sleep I was keen to discover Kashan. The town is quit famous for the Fin Gardens (Bagh-é Tārīkhī-yé Fin). The garden is not big but a very nice place for some hours. After strolling around some time in the hot and dry city it is really enjoyable to sit below trees and listen the water flowing beside the small trails.
Fin Garten
In the garden are some wells which are covered by beautiful small domes. Like so much buildings in Iran they are under renovation but even then the constructions kept their charme.
Dome in the Fin Garden
Another interesting place is the Shāhzadeh-yé Ibrahīm. This small mosque is for sure worth a visit. They take no entrance fee and the location a little bit away from the busy main street is peaceful.
Mosque in Kashan
There it is possible to see a wall and a small tower built with straw and mud. This building material was and is very important in Persia.
Tower in Kashan
It was a tough day and the real Persian dinner in the Dellpazir restaurant was well earned. Here I encountered my first Wellcome sign. This wrong spelling is quit popular. I was really happy when I was lying in my bed and reading Lord Gamma. The next day would be tough as well. So sleeping was important to regenerate.
Persian Papers

Skaif Yomonul

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