Around the Tengger caldera people live their simple lifes. Small farms with a fantastic view.

Old concrete

Near vegetation - distant volcano

Cloud formations above the Tengger caldera

After the eruption one day before the crater rim of the Bromo volcano was off limits. From the elevated position Bromo and its temple gave a nice picture. From there the stairs climbing up to the rim were as well visible.

The view over the Tengger caldera is spectacular. Maybe it is better to stand there in the morning with the mist covering the sand sea. But for me it was not important anymore when I stood up there. Distant Semeru erupting, Bromo smoking, the small tiny farms crawling up the caldera walls, far away in the east next volcano massive showing up. Only me and a wonderful panorama. This was everything I needed at that time. It made the travel to Indonesia to one of my absolute highlights.

The Tengger caldera is famous for the so called sand sea right beside Bromo to the eastern part. While walking through the caldera the contrast between grass and sand sea can be observed. It is a remarkable sign of what volcanos can do.

Bromo itself is not allowing any organism to dig its roots into his crater walls.

And even in the sand sea vegetation has no easy life.

With Bromo the dormant Batok got as well visible.

The volcanos inside the caldera can emit enough heat to melt the sand. The remains can be seen here:

People around the Tengger massif live not only with the volcanos. The fire mountains are much more. They are part of their believes. One sign is the temple inside the caldera right beside Bromo.

Even after the explosion one day before people were still walking through the caldera.

Even traffic was getting denser around Bromo ;-)

The June 9th 2004 was a wonderful day. It was silent, sunny and Gunung Bromo in the Tengger caldera was calm. Now I know that the 9th was the day Bromo prepared another eruption after the one a day before which killed two visitors. On the 10th the volcano sent another dense plume into the atmosphere.
Activity Report (Smithsonian)
When I entered the caldera not much people were around me. Only a few farmers were mowing some grass on the caldera slopes with their sickles.

The vegetation was dense. The dormant volcanoes were covered with grass. But still the geological shaping of the caldera interior was visible.

The street leading to the bottom was not in a good condition. But with 4-wheel-drives or motorcycles using it was no problem. Luckily there was not much traffic this day.

Sometimes I was remembered to the novel Hyperion by Dan Simmons. Why? Because of the caldera floor covered only with grass. It looked like a gigantic sea of grass. A really beautiful view.

In the centre of the caldera the childs of Tengger were reaching for the sky.

A farmer couple on its way to find a good place for mowing grass. Farming in Indonesia looked mostly archaic to me. People worked on small fields, had only a small number of animals and used motorcycles instead of tractors. Around the Bromo caldera earth is fertile (deep black earth) but the slopes are steep. Maybe Swiss-made tractors can handle it but for sure the farmers can't even dream about them. They use the sickle and if the don't have a motorcycle they walk all the way till the grass sea to get the food for their animals.

The rim of the caldera was sometimes quit steep.

The grass sea short before the sand sea began.

Gunung Bromo sent his first wishes.

Because of the fatal eruption a day before the officials were on high alert. Here a rescue team was on a patrol.

Entering the Tengger caldera during a nice day is really wonderful. It is difficult to shape sentences describing this huge and beautiful place of visible earth geology. The walls, the plains, the volcanoes - the Tengger caldera is a must see. Hiking through it is a real special experience, no Java traveller should miss.

The caldera from the viewing point near Ranu Pani

One of the younger volcanoes "sitting" in the huge Tengger caldera.

The June 9th 2004 I used for visiting the Tengger caldera. One day before an eruption of the famous Bromo volcanoe in the caldera caused two deaths. Fortunately it happened while I enjoyed my "free day" after the Semeru trekking. From the place where I entered the caldera the view onto Semeru was perfect.

Eruption at 07:39

Eruption at 07:43
The lower picture shows the street leading to Ranu Pani. It is one of the better parts. Short before entering Ranu Pani the street is covered with deep holes. People use still normal cars but a 4-wheel-drive is really adviseable.

One major attraction in Tumpang is an ancient temple in the middle of the town. It size is quit small but the carvings on his side tell a long story. To different style are used during the time. The guide at the temple made great efforts to explain every detail of the temple and the story it told.
Furtunately I had the daughter of my host with me. She spoke quit good English. A must - she wants to visit a Singaporian school in the near future. I wish her all the best.
Some impressions of the temple

The temple as whole

A very small outtake of one history the temple told. Let's say it is an ancient comic strip.

The temple is situated in the middle of the town. The contrast of history and now is everywhere visible.